Russian cuisine Pokhlebkin read. Pokhlebkin
In Russian folk cuisine, there are three main varieties of meat second courses:
Boiled meat in a large piece, cooked in soups and gruels, and then used as a second course or as a cold snack;
Dishes from offal (liver, omentum, abomasum), baked together with cereals in pots;
Dishes from a whole animal (poultry) or from a part of it (legs), or from a large piece of meat (rump, rump), roasted in an oven on a baking sheet, the so-called roast.
Various cutlets, meatballs, meatballs, dumplings made from ground meat, borrowed and spread only in the 19th-20th centuries, are not typical for classical Russian cuisine and therefore are not given here.
In the past, porridges and gruels were usually used as side dishes for meat dishes of the Russian table, in which meat was cooked, then either boiled, or rather steamed and baked, root vegetables (turnips, carrots), as well as mushrooms; to the roast, regardless of the meat used, in addition, pickles were also served - sauerkraut, pickled and sour apples, pickled lingonberries, boils.
AT modern conditions baked vegetables for Russian meat dishes are conveniently cooked in aluminum food foil. The role of gravy is usually played by the juice formed during frying, as well as melted sour cream and melted butter, which are poured over boiled vegetables or flavored with cereals, that is, a side dish. Sauces for meat dishes, i.e., sauces based on flour, butter, eggs and milk, are not characteristic of native Russian cuisine.
JELLY
:
1 head (veal or pork), 4 legs (veal or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 10 black peppercorns, 5 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 5 bay leaves, 1-2 onions, 1 garlic head , for 1 kg of meat - 1 liter of water.
Singe the legs and head, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook for 6 to 8 hours on very low heat, without boiling, so that the volume of water is reduced by half. 1-1.5 hours before the end of cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, 20 minutes - pepper, bay leaf; salt a little.
Then take out the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, transfer to a separate bowl, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper.
Boil the broth with the remaining bones for another half an hour or an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), add salt, strain and pour over the boiled prepared meat.
Freeze for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin is not used, since young meat (veal, pig, pork) contains a sufficient amount of sticky substances.
Serve the jelly with horseradish, mustard, crushed garlic and sour cream.
BOILED BEEF
Boiled beef in a large piece (1.5-2 kg) is boiled in gruels (Tikhvin, Kostroma) and less often in bone broths (the broth from the bones is prepared in advance and then the meat is immersed in the boiling broth).
For boiled beef, mainly the shoulder and thigh parts are used, as well as the hem, a thin edge.
The usual cooking time is 2.5 hours on moderate heat.
NANNY
:
1 lamb head, 4 lamb legs, 1 mutton abomasum, 2 cups buckwheat, 4 onions, 100 g butter or sunflower oil.
1. Boil the lamb head and legs so that the meat itself falls behind the bones. Separate the meat. Take the brain out of your head.
2. Cook steep buckwheat porridge.
3. Finely chop lamb meat together with onions, mix with porridge and butter.
4. Carefully scrape the lamb abomasum, wash it, stuff it with prepared minced meat (point 3), put brains in the middle of it, sew up the abomasum and place it in earthenware (a wide clay pot in a korchaga), which is tightly closed.
Place in a slightly heated oven for 2-3 hours.
STUFFING BOX
:
1 lamb omentum, 1 kg of lamb liver, 1.5-2 cups of buckwheat, 3 eggs, 3 onions, 5-6 dry porcini mushrooms, 1 cup of sour cream.
Soak the liver for 2 hours in water or milk, boil, chop finely, mix with steep buckwheat porridge cooked with onions and crushed dry mushrooms and knead on sour cream into a thick mass.
Fill with it the omentum, previously laid in a korchaga (wide clay pot) so that the edges of the omentum tightly cover this mass from above.
Close the pot.
Bake the omentum in the oven for 1-1.5 hours over moderate heat.
REPRINT
:
1.5 kg of lamb liver, 1 lamb omentum, 4 eggs, 1-1.5 cups of milk, 1 head of garlic, 2 onions, 10 black peppercorns.
1. Rinse the raw liver, remove the films, boil with boiling water, chop finely, and then pound with finely chopped onion, garlic and pepper.
2. Beat two full eggs and two yolks, mix with milk.
3. Combine the products indicated in paragraphs 1 and 2, pour into a lamb omentum placed in a clay pot, close the edges of the omentum from above, grease with whipped proteins and bake in an oven or oven for 2-3 hours over low heat.
Roasted piglet
:
1 suckling pig (1.5 kg), 500 g buckwheat, 50 g butter, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of sunflower or olive oil.
Pig preparation.
Wash a fat pig cold water, hold in it for 3-4 minutes, then dip in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, carefully pluck the bristles without damaging the skin, rub with flour, singe, then rip, gut, wash inside and out, after which it is advisable to cut out all the bones from the inside ( ribs, spine), with the exception of the head and legs, in no case cutting through the meat and skin through.
Minced meat preparation.
Prepare cool buckwheat porridge, but do not flavor with anything other than butter. Before cooking, fry the grits with butter, scald with boiling water, separate the floating grains. Season the cooked porridge with salt. Add fried and chopped pig liver to it, mix.
Stuffed piglet.
Lay the porridge along the piglet evenly throughout, so as not to distort its shape, avoiding thickening in some places, at the same time it is quite tight. Then sew the piglet with a harsh thread, straighten the shape, bend the legs, put on the baking sheet sideways on birch sticks arranged crosswise so that the skin of the piglet does not touch the baking sheet. You can not salt or flavor with spices.
Roasting a pig.
Coat the piglet with vegetable oil, pour melted butter on top and put in a preheated oven until browned. Then turn over and brown the other side. After that, reduce the heat and continue to fry, pouring the flowing juice over the piglet every 10 minutes for 1 hour and turning it over alternately: fry the back up for 15-20 minutes.
When the piglet is ready, make a deep incision along its back so that steam comes out of the piglet and it does not sweat. In this case, the crust will remain dry and crispy. Let stand for 15 minutes, cut into pieces (or leave whole), pour over the juice remaining after frying and serve with cranberry broth.
ROAST
:
2-2.5 kg of well-fed beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 black pepper grains, 3-4 bay leaves, 2 teaspoons of ginger, 0.5 cups of sour cream, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1-1.5 cups of kvass.
Wash the beef, remove films, bones, cut off the fat from it, cut it into small pieces, put it on a preheated frying pan or baking sheet, melt, calcine, fry the whole piece of beef in it so that it becomes covered with a crust, sprinkling with finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley and crushed spices, then place in the oven, pour a little kvass every 10 minutes, turning all the time.
Fry for about 1-1.5 hours.
5-7 minutes before the end of frying, collect all the juice in a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, put in the refrigerator.
When the juice has cooled, remove the layer of fat from the surface, and heat the meat juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as a dipping sauce.
Remove the cooked beef from the oven, salt, let it cool slightly (15 minutes), then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour over hot meat juice and serve.
Roasts are not served cold or reheated.
Garnish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, turnips, rutabaga, fried or stewed mushrooms.
The most traditional broths are onion, cabbage, cranberry.
Russian cuisine has long been widely known throughout the world. This manifests itself as a direct penetration into the international restaurant cuisine of primordially Russian food products (caviar, red fish, sour cream, buckwheat, rye flour, etc.) or some of the most famous dishes of the Russian national menu (jelly, cabbage soup, fish soup, pancakes, pies, etc.), and in the indirect influence of the Russian culinary arts to the cuisines of other nations.
Assortment of Russian cuisine dishes at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries. became so diverse, and its influence and popularity in Europe are so great that by this time they were talking about it with the same respect as about the famous French cuisine.
Russian national cuisine has gone through an extremely long path of development, marked by several major stages, each of which has left an indelible mark.
Old Russian cuisine, which developed from the 9th-10th centuries. and reached its greatest prosperity in the XV-XVI centuries, although its formation covers a huge historical period, it is characterized by common features that have largely been preserved to this day.
At the beginning of this period, Russian bread made from sour (yeast) rye dough appeared - this uncrowned king is on our table, without it the Russian menu is now unthinkable - and all other the most important species Russian bakery and flour products: known to us saika, bagels, juicy, donuts, pancakes, pancakes, pies, etc. These products were prepared exclusively on the basis of sour dough - so characteristic of Russian cuisine throughout its historical development. The addiction to sour, kvass was also reflected in the creation of Russian real kissels - oatmeal, wheat and rye, which appeared long before modern ones. Mostly berry jelly.
A large place in the menu was also occupied by various gruels and porridges, which were originally considered ritual, solemn food.
All this bread, flour food diversified most of all with fish, mushrooms, forest berries, vegetables, milk, and very rarely - with meat.
By the same time, the appearance of classic Russian drinks - all kinds of honey, kvass, sbitney.
Already in the early period of the development of Russian cuisine, a sharp division of the Russian table into lean (vegetable-fish-mushroom) and fast food (milk-egg-meat) was outlined, which had a huge impact on its further development up to the end of the 19th century. The artificial creation of a line between fast and fast tables, isolating some products from others, preventing their mixing ultimately led to the creation of only some original dishes, and the whole menu suffered as a whole - it became more monotonous, simplified.
It can be said that the Lenten table was more fortunate: since most of the days in the year - from 192 to 216 in different years - were considered Lenten (and these fasts were observed very strictly), it was natural to expand the assortment of the Lenten table. Hence the abundance of mushroom and fish dishes in Russian cuisine, the tendency to use various vegetable raw materials - grains (porridge), vegetables, wild berries and herbs (nettles, gouts, quinoa, etc.).
Moreover, such well-known from the tenth century. vegetables like cabbages, turnips, radishes, peas, cucumbers were cooked and eaten - whether raw, salted, steamed, boiled or baked - separately from one another. Therefore, for example, salads and especially vinaigrettes have never been characteristic of Russian cuisine and appeared in Russia already in the 19th century. as a borrowing from the West. But they were also originally made mainly with one vegetable, giving the corresponding name to the salad - cucumber salad, beetroot salad, potato salad, etc.
Each type of mushroom - milk mushrooms, saffron mushrooms, mushrooms, ceps, morels, stoves (champignons), etc. - was salted or cooked completely separately, which, by the way, is still practiced today. The same can be said about fish, which was consumed boiled, dried, salted, baked, and less often fried. In the literature, we meet juicy, “delicious” names of fish dishes: sigovina, taimenin, pike, halibut, catfish, salmon, sturgeon, stellate sturgeon, beluga and others. And the ear could be perch, and ruff, and burbot, and sturgeon, etc.
Thus, the number of dishes by name was huge, but all of them differed little from each other in content. Taste diversity was achieved, firstly, by the difference in heat and cold processing, as well as the use of various oils, mainly vegetable (hemp, nut, poppy, olive, and much later sunflower), and secondly, the use of spices. Of the latter, onion, garlic, horseradish, dill were most often used, and in very large quantities, as well as parsley, anise, coriander, bay leaf, black pepper and cloves, which appeared in Russia already in the 10th-11th centuries. Later, in the 15th - early 16th centuries, they were supplemented with ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, calamus (calamus root) and saffron.
In the initial period of the development of Russian cuisine, there was also a tendency to consume liquid hot dishes, which then received the general name "khlebova". The most widespread are such types of bread as cabbage soup, stews based on vegetable raw materials, as well as various mashes, brews, talkers, salomats and other types of flour soups.
As for meat and milk, these products were consumed relatively rarely, and their processing was not difficult. Meat, as a rule, was boiled in cabbage soup or porridge, milk was drunk raw, stewed or sour. Dairy products were used to make cottage cheese and sour cream, while the production of cream and butter remained almost unknown for a long time, at least until the 15th-16th centuries. these products appeared rarely, irregularly.
The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine is the period from the middle of the XVI century. until the end of the 17th century. At this time, not only the further development of variants of the lenten and fast meals continues, but the differences between the cuisines of various classes and estates are especially sharply indicated.
From that time on, the cuisine of the common people began to become more and more simple, the cuisine of the boyars, the nobility, and especially the nobility, became more and more refined. She collects, combines and generalizes the experience of previous centuries in the field of Russian cuisine, creates on the basis of it new, more complex versions of old dishes, and for the first time borrows and openly introduces into Russian cuisine a number of foreign dishes and culinary techniques, mainly of Eastern origin.
Particular attention is drawn to the modest festive table of that time. Along with the already familiar corned beef and boiled meat, twisted (that is, cooked on skewers) and fried meat, poultry and game occupy a place of honor on the table of the nobility. The types of meat processing are increasingly differentiated. So, beef goes mainly for cooking corned beef and for boiling (boiled slaughter); ham is made from pork for long-term storage, or it is used as fresh or milk pig in fried and stewed form, and in Russia only meat, lean pork is valued; finally, mutton, poultry and game are used mainly for roasts and only partly (mutton) for stewing.
In the 17th century all the main types of Russian soups finally add up, while kali, hangovers, hodgepodges, pickles, unknown in medieval Russia, appear.
The lenten table of the nobility is also enriched. A prominent place on it begins to be occupied by balyk, black caviar, which was eaten not only salted, but also boiled in vinegar or poppy milk.
Culinary of the 17th century Eastern and, first of all, Tatar cuisine has a strong influence, which is associated with the accession in the second half of the 16th century. to the Russian state of the Astrakhan and Kazan khanates, Bashkiria and Siberia. It was during this period that dishes from unleavened dough (noodles, dumplings), such products as raisins, apricots, figs (figs), as well as lemons and tea, the use of which has since become traditional in Russia, enter Russian cuisine. Thus, the sweet table is significantly replenished.
Next to the gingerbread, known in Russia even before the adoption of Christianity, one could see a variety of gingerbread, sweet pies, candies, candied fruits, numerous jams, not only from berries, but also from some vegetables (carrots with honey and ginger, radish in molasses) . In the second half of the XVII century. Cane sugar began to be brought to Russia (1), from which, together with spices, candies and snacks, sweets, delicacies, fruits, etc. were cooked. But all these sweet dishes were mainly the privilege of the nobility (2).
- (1) The first refinery was founded by the merchant Vestov in Moscow at the beginning of the 18th century. He was allowed to import cane raw materials duty-free. Sugar factories based on beet raw materials were created only at the end of the 18th - early XIX centuries (The first plant is in the village of Alyabyevo, Tula province).
(2) The menu of the patriarchal dinner for 1671 already contains sugar and candy.
At the same time, there is a desire to decorate dishes. Palaces are built from foodstuffs, fantastic animals of gigantic proportions. Court dinners turn into a pompous, magnificent ritual that lasts 6-8 hours in a row - from two in the afternoon to ten in the evening - and includes almost a dozen meals, each of which consists of a whole series (sometimes two dozen) of the same name dishes, for example from a dozen varieties of fried game or salted fish, from a dozen types of pancakes or pies (3).
- (3) The order of serving dishes at a rich festive table, consisting of 6-8 changes, finally took shape in the second half of the 18th century. However, one dish was served at each break. This order was preserved until the 60-70s of the XIX century:
1) hot (soup, soup, fish soup);
2) cold (okroshka, botvinya, jelly, jellied fish, corned beef);
3) roast (meat, poultry);
4) body (boiled or fried hot fish);
5) pies (unsweetened), kulebyaka;
6) porridge (sometimes served with cabbage soup);
7) cake (sweet pies, pies);
8) snacks.
All kinds of casseroles and puddings turned out to be alien to the ancient Russian cuisine. The desire to cook a dish from a whole large piece, and ideally from a whole animal or plant, persisted until the 18th century. The exception seemed to be fillings in pies, in whole animals and poultry, and in their parts - abomasum, omentum. However, in most cases, these were, so to speak, ready-made fillings, crushed by nature itself - grain (porridge), berries, mushrooms (they were not cut either). The fish for the filling was only plastified, but not crushed. And only much later - at the end of the XVIII century. and especially in the nineteenth century. - already under the influence of Western European cuisine, some fillings began to grind on purpose.
The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine begins at the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries. and lasts a little more than a century - until the first decade of the XIX century. At this time, there is a radical delimitation of the cuisine of the ruling classes and the cuisine of the common people. If in the 17th century the kitchen of the ruling classes still retained national character and its difference from folk cuisine was expressed only in the fact that in terms of quality, abundance and assortment of products and dishes it sharply surpassed folk cuisine, then in the 18th century. the cuisine of the ruling classes gradually began to lose the Russian national character.
Since the time of Peter the Great, the Russian nobility and the rest of the nobility have been borrowing and introducing Western European culinary traditions. Wealthy nobles who visited Western Europe brought foreign chefs with them. At first these were for the most part Dutch and German, especially Saxon and Austrian, then Swedish and predominantly French. From the middle of the XVIII century. foreign cooks were discharged so regularly that they soon almost completely replaced the cooks and serf cooks from the higher nobility.
One of the new customs that appeared at this time should be considered the use of snacks as an independent dish. German sandwiches, French and Dutch cheeses that came from the West and hitherto unknown on the Russian table were combined with old Russian dishes - cold corned beef, jelly, ham, boiled pork, as well as caviar, salmon and other salted red fish in a single serving or even in a special meal - breakfast.
There were also new alcoholic drinks - ratafii and erofeichi. Since the 70s of the XVIII century, when tea began to gain more and more importance, in the highest circles of society, sweet pies, pies and sweets stood out beyond the dinner table, which were combined with tea in a separate serving and dated for 5 pm.
Only in the first half of the 19th century, after Patriotic War 1812, in connection with the general rise of patriotism in the country and the struggle of Slavophil circles with foreign influence, the leading representatives of the nobility begin to revive interest in the national Russian cuisine. However, when in 1816 the Tula landowner V. A. Levshin tried to compile the first Russian cookbook, he was forced to state that “information about Russian dishes has almost completely disappeared” and therefore “it is now impossible to imagine full description Russian cookery and should be content only with what can still be collected from the memory, for the history of Russian cookery has never been given to description” (4). As a result, the descriptions of Russian cuisine dishes collected by V. A. Levshin from memory were not only not accurate in their recipe, but also in their assortment far from reflecting the real richness of the dishes of the Russian national table.
- (4) Levshin V. A. Russian cookery. M., 1816.
A number of French chefs worked in Russia during this period, radically reforming the Russian cuisine of the ruling classes. The first French chef who left a mark on the reform of Russian cuisine was Marie-Antoine Karem - one of the first and few chefs-researchers, chefs-scientists. Before coming to Russia at the invitation of Prince P.I. Bagration, Karem was the cook of the English Prince Regent (future King George IV), Duke of Württemberg, Rothschild, Talleyrand. He was keenly interested in the cuisines of various nations. During his short stay in Russia, Karem got acquainted with Russian cuisine in detail, appreciated its merits and outlined ways to free it from alluvial.
Karem's successors in Russia continued the reform he had begun. This reform touched, firstly, the order of serving dishes to the table. adopted in the 18th century. The “French” serving system, when all dishes were put on the table at the same time, was replaced by the old Russian way of serving, when one dish replaced another. At the same time, the number of changes was reduced to 4-5 and a sequence was introduced in serving dinner, in which heavy dishes alternated with light and appetizing ones. In addition, whole-cooked meat or poultry was no longer served on the table; before serving, they began to be cut into portions. With such a system, decorating dishes as an end in itself has lost all meaning.
The reformers also advocated the replacement of dishes from crushed and pureed products, which occupied great place in the cuisine of the ruling classes in the 18th - early 19th centuries, dishes made from natural products more typical of Russian cuisine. So there were all kinds of chops (lamb and pork) from a whole piece of meat with a bone, natural steaks, bedbugs, langets, entrecotes, escalopes.
At the same time, the efforts of culinary specialists were aimed at eliminating the heaviness and indigestibility of some dishes. So, in the recipes for cabbage soup, they discarded the flour podbolt that made them tasteless, which was preserved only by virtue of tradition, and not common sense, they began to widely use potatoes in garnishes, which appeared in Russia in the 70s years XVIII in.
For Russian pies, they suggested using soft puff pastry made from wheat flour instead of rye sour. They also introduced a safe method of preparing dough with pressed yeast, which we use today, thanks to which the sour dough, which previously took 10-12 hours to prepare, began to ripen in 2 hours.
French chefs also paid attention to appetizers, which became one of the specific features of the Russian table. If in the XVIII century. the German form of serving snacks prevailed - sandwiches, then in the 19th century. they began to serve appetizers on a special table, each type on a special dish, beautifully decorating them, and thus expanded their assortment so much, choosing among the appetizers a whole range of old Russian not only meat and fish, but also mushroom and vegetable sauerkraut dishes, that their abundance and variety henceforth never ceased to be a constant object of astonishment to foreigners.
Finally, the French school introduced a combination of products (vinaigrettes, salads, side dishes) and precise dosages in recipes that were not previously accepted in Russian cuisine, and introduced Russian cuisine to Western European kitchen appliances unknown to it.
At the end of the XIX century. the Russian stove and pots and cast-iron pots specially adapted to its thermal regime were replaced by a stove with its oven, pots, stewpans, etc. Instead of a sieve and a sieve, they began to use colanders, skimmers, meat grinders, etc.
An important contribution of French culinary specialists to the development of Russian cuisine was the fact that they prepared a whole galaxy of brilliant Russian chefs. Their students were Mikhail and Gerasim Stepanov, G. Dobrovolsky, V. Bestuzhev, I. Radetsky, P. Grigoriev, I. Antonov, Z. Eremeev, N. Khodeev, P. Vikentiev and others who supported and distributed best traditions Russian cuisine throughout the 19th century. Of these, G. Stepanov and I. Radetsky were not only outstanding practitioners, but also left behind extensive manuals on Russian cooking.
In parallel with this process of updating the cuisine of the ruling classes, carried out, so to speak, “from above” and concentrated in the noble clubs and restaurants of St. estates until the 70s of the XIX century. The source for this collection was folk cuisine, in the development of which a huge number of nameless and unknown, but talented serf cooks took part.
To last third 19th century Russian cuisine of the ruling classes, thanks to the unique assortment of dishes, their refined and delicate taste, began to occupy one of the leading places in Europe along with French cuisine.
At the same time, it must be emphasized that, despite all the changes, introductions and foreign influences, its main character traits have been preserved and have remained inherent in it to the present, as they were steadfastly kept in the folk cuisine. These main features of Russian cuisine and the Russian national table can be defined as follows: an abundance of dishes, a variety of snack tables, a love for eating bread, pancakes, pies, cereals, the originality of the first liquid cold and hot dishes, a variety of fish and mushroom tables, the widespread use of pickles from vegetables and mushrooms, an abundance of a festive and sweet table with its jams, cookies, gingerbread, Easter cakes, etc.
Some features of Russian cuisine should be said in more detail. Even at the end of the XVIII century. Russian historian I. Boltin noted characteristics Russian table, including not only the prosperous. In the countryside, four times of food were accepted, and in the summer at work time - five: breakfast, or interception, afternoon tea, earlier than lunch, or at noon sharp, lunch, dinner and paupin.
These vyti, adopted in Central and Northern Russia, were also preserved in Southern Russia, but with different names. There at 6-7 o'clock in the morning they ate, at 11-12 they dined, at 14-15 they had an afternoon snack, at 18-19 they ate in the evening, and at 22-23 they had supper. With the development of capitalism, the working people in the cities began to eat at first three, and then only two times a day: breakfast at dawn, lunch or dinner when they came home. At work, they only had an afternoon snack, that is, they ate cold food. Gradually, any full meal, a full table with hot brew, began to be called lunch, sometimes regardless of the time of day.
Bread played an important role at the Russian table. For shchi or other first liquid dish in the village, they usually ate from half a kilo to a kilogram of black rye bread. White bread, wheat, was not actually distributed in Russia until the beginning of the 20th century. It was eaten occasionally and mostly by the wealthy segments of the population in the cities, and among the people they looked at it as a festive meal. Therefore, white bread, called a bun in a number of regions of the country (5), was not baked in bakeries, like black bread, but in special bakeries and sweetened slightly. Local varieties of white bread were Moscow saiks and kalachi, Smolensk pretzels, Valdai bagels, etc. Black bread differed not by the place of manufacture, but only by the type of baking and the type of flour - baked, custard, hearth, peeled, etc.
- (5) "Bulka" - from the French word boule, which means "round like a ball." Initially, only French and German bakers baked white bread.
The first liquid dishes, called s late XVIII in. soups. Soups have always played a dominant role on the Russian table. No wonder the spoon was the main cutlery. It appeared with us earlier than the fork by almost 400 years. “A fork is like a hook, and a spoon is like a net,” said a popular proverb.
The assortment of national Russian soups - cabbage soup, mash, stew, fish soup, pickles, saltwort, botviny, okroshka, prisons - continued to grow in the 18th-20th centuries. various types Western European soups like broths, puree soups, various dressing soups with meat and cereals, which took root well thanks to the love of the Russian people for hot liquid brew.
In the same way, many soups of the peoples of our country have received a place on the modern Russian table, for example, Ukrainian borscht and kulesh, Belarusian beetroot soups and soups with dumplings. Many soups, especially vegetable and vegetable-cereal soups, were obtained from liquefied slurry-zaspitsa (i.e. slurry with vegetable filling) or are the fruits of restaurant cuisine. However, it is not they, despite their diversity, but the old, primordially Russian soups like cabbage soup and fish soup that still determine the originality of the Russian table.
To a lesser extent than soups, fish dishes have retained their original significance on the Russian table. Some classic Russian fish dishes, like telnoye, have fallen into disuse. On the other hand, they are delicious and easy to make. It is quite possible to cook them from sea fish, which, by the way, was used in Russian cuisine in the old days, especially in Northern Russia, in Russian Pomorie. The inhabitants of these breadless regions in those days have long been accustomed to cod, halibut, haddock, capelin, navaga. “Lack of fish is worse than lack of bread,” the Pomors used to say then.
Known in Russian cuisine are steam, boiled, calf fish, that is, made in a special way from one fillet, without bones, fried, mended (filled with porridge or mushrooms), stewed, aspic, baked in scales, baked in a pan in sour cream , salted (salted), dried and dried (sushchik). In the Pechora and Perm Territories, fish was also fermented (sour fish), and in Western Siberia ate stroganina - frozen raw fish. Only the method of smoking fish was not widespread, which was developed mainly only in the last 70-80 years, i.e. since the beginning of the 20th century.
Characteristic of the old Russian cuisine was the widespread use of spices in a fairly large assortment. However, the decline in the role of fish, mushroom and game dishes, as well as the introduction of a number of German dishes into the menu, has affected the reduction in the share of spices used in Russian cuisine.
In addition, due to the high cost, many spices, as well as vinegar and salt, have been sold since the 17th century. people began to use re in the process of cooking, and put it on the table and use it already during meals, depending on the desire of everyone. This custom gave rise to later assert that Russian cuisine allegedly did not use spices. At the same time, they referred to the well-known essay by G. Kotoshikhin about Russia in the 17th century, where he wrote: “There is a custom to cook without seasonings, without pepper and indigo, lightly salted and without vinegar.” Meanwhile, the same G. Kotoshikhin further explained: “And as soon as they start the nets and in which there is little vinegar and salt and pepper, they add them to the table” (6).
- (6) Kotoshikhin G. About Russia in the reign of Alexei Mikhailovich. SPb. 1840.
Finally, in conclusion, it is necessary to dwell on some technological processes inherent in Russian cuisine.
For a long period of the development of Russian national cuisine, the process of cooking was reduced to cooking or baking products in a Russian oven, and these operations were necessarily carried out separately. What was intended for boiling was boiled from beginning to end, what was intended for baking was only baked. Thus, Russian folk cuisine did not know what combined or even different, combined or double heat treatment was.
The heat treatment of food consisted in heating with the heat of a Russian stove, strong or weak, in three degrees - "before bread", "after bread", "in the free spirit" - but always without contact with fire and either with a constant temperature kept at the same level, or with a falling, decreasing temperature as the oven gradually cools down, but never with an increasing temperature, as in stovetop cooking. That is why the dishes always turned out not even boiled, but rather stewed or half-stewed, half-stewed, which is why they acquired a very special taste. Not without reason, many dishes of old Russian cuisine do not make the proper impression when they are cooked in other temperature conditions.
Does this mean that it is necessary to restore the Russian stove in order to get real dishes of Russian cuisine in modern conditions? Far from it. Instead, it is enough to simulate the thermal regime of falling temperature created by it. Such imitation is possible under modern conditions.
However, we should not forget that the Russian stove had not only positive, but to a certain extent, positive effect on Russian cuisine. bad influence- it did not stimulate the development of rational technological methods.
The introduction of plate cooking led to the need to borrow a number of new technological methods and, along with them, dishes from Western European cuisine, as well as to the reform of dishes of old Russian cuisine, their refining and development, adaptation to new technology. This trend has proven to be fruitful. It helped save many dishes of Russian cuisine from oblivion.
Speaking of Russian cuisine, we have so far emphasized its features and characteristics, examined the history of its development and its content as a whole. Meanwhile, one should keep in mind the pronounced regional differences in it, explained mainly by the diversity natural areas and the related dissimilarity of plant and animal products, the different influences of neighboring peoples, as well as the diversity social structure population in the past.
That is why the cuisines of Muscovites and Pomors, Don Cossacks and Siberians are very different. While in the North they eat venison, fresh and salted sea fish, rye pies, dezhni with cottage cheese and a lot of mushrooms, in the Don they roast and stew steppe game, eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, drink grape wine and cook pies with chicken meat. If the food of the Pomors is similar to Scandinavian, Finnish, Karelian and Lappish (Sami), then Turkish, Nogai cuisines had a noticeable influence on the cuisine of the Don Cossacks, and Russian population in the Urals or Siberia follows the Tatar and Udmurt culinary traditions.
Regional features of a different plan have long been also inherent in the cuisines of the old Russian regions of Central Russia. These features are due to the medieval rivalry between Novgorod and Pskov, Tver and Moscow, Vladimir and Yaroslavl, Kaluga and Smolensk, Ryazan and Nizhny Novgorod. Moreover, they manifested themselves in the field of cuisine not in major dissimilarities, such as differences in cooking technology or in the availability of their own dishes in each region, as was the case, for example, in Siberia and the Urals, but in differences between the same dishes, in differences are often even insignificant, but nevertheless quite persistent.
A vivid example of this is at least such common Russian dishes as fish soup, pancakes, pies, cereals and gingerbread: they were made throughout European Russia, but each region had its favorite types of these dishes, its own minor differences in their recipes, its own appearance, their methods of serving to the table, etc.
We owe this, if I may say so, “small regionality” to the emergence, development and existence so far, for example, different types gingerbread - Tula, Vyazma, Voronezh, Gorodetsky, Moscow, etc.
Regional differences, both large and small, naturally enriched Russian cuisine even more and diversified it. And at the same time, all of them did not change its basic character, because in each specific case, the above-mentioned common features, which together distinguish the national Russian cuisine throughout Russia from the Baltic to the Pacific Ocean, attract attention.
07.09.2016
Soup for headaches and cloudy mood. Don't believe? There is one. The author's recipe from a very worthy person, proven by experience. William Vasilievich Pokhlebkin. A true representative of the Russian intelligentsia.
Listen to his interviews, they can still be found on the Internet. The atmosphere of pre-perestroika kitchens will immediately come to life, where everyone was ready to have a glass of hot tea and talk until the morning, because it is impossible to break away earlier. There, without looking back, in the emotional heat, to the left and to the right, brilliant thoughts were given away. It was then that they began to consider how much each such word costs.
There were those who turned them into quite impressive fees. But this did not make them happy. The original Russian mind, tested by the tradition of conscience, is difficult to spoil with education or infect with self-interest. As grass breaks through asphalt, so it will make itself felt through the most hardened deposit of an alien culture. Pokhlebkin, a Russian thinker, is so Russian that you wonder, as if he came out of fairy tales.
At the age of 17, he volunteered for the front. Served in intelligence. He went through almost the entire war. Due to a serious injury, he could no longer serve. Even at the front, he perfectly mastered German and three other languages. In 1949 he graduated from the Moscow State Institute of International Relations of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs. His foreign-sounding name, however, is not at all foreign roots. In fact, his name is Wil, which means Vladimir Ilyich Lenin. Full name - Wil-August.
His father, the Russian underground revolutionary Mikhailov, named his son after Vladimir Lenin and August Bebel. However, "Vil" was re-voiced into "William", maybe the profession influenced. Pokhlebkin is one of the best specialists on foreign policy countries of Central and Northern Europe. He defended his thesis on the latest Norwegian diplomacy. He worked at the Institute of History of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR.
He taught at MGIMO, the Higher Diplomatic School of the USSR Ministry of Foreign Affairs, at Moscow State University. The President of Finland, Kekkonen, awarded William Vasilyevich with a prize for best job about Finland. This prize, $50,000, Pokhlebkin gave to the Soviet government. He preferred poverty. In everyday life - an ascetic, in thought - an ascetic, in honor - flint. Betrayed to the Fatherland, when others, nearby, lose their way. Kind and, in Russian, deep and trusting.
Cooking has been his passion since childhood. And this is a great gift to us, because a man who speaks 6 languages, is experienced in diplomatic etiquette, has a delicate aristocratic taste, which is unattainable without nobility of soul, took up cooking.
Recipe V.V. Pokhlebkin No. 1
The promised soup. In order for even a very severe headache to disappear, with a 100% guarantee, you need to boil one and a half liters of water, dip 20 white peppercorns and a teaspoon of salt (without top) into it. If sellers tell you that there is no such pepper, do not believe them. Peppercorns should be boiled for 20 minutes. Only then will the soup work. Next, you need carp and mushrooms. While the pepper is being cooked, the carp should be cleaned, washed and put in cold water acidified with lemon. Let it stand for now.
Carefully place 2-3 white mushrooms in boiling water. Before this, finely chop them, if fresh. Crush into powder if dry. Only porcini mushrooms are needed! It is absolutely impossible to replace them with others. The Russian taste will go away, and the soup will not work, the headache will not go away. Dip one or two potatoes, 1 carrot, 1 turnip, 2 onions and two tomatoes into the soup. Cut them up first too.
After 10 minutes, put the fish cut into four pieces into the soup, and then lower the spices: celery greens, dill, parsley and bay leaf. After 15 minutes, turn off the heat, close the pot with a lid. Note that before this soup was cooked without a lid! Let it brew for 2-3 minutes, and you can serve. It is not necessary to wait for a headache, especially a severe one, to try the soup.
Recipe V.V. Pokhlebkin No. 2
Especially relevant in winter. Medicinal milk, which can be used as a medicine for diseases of the ear, throat and nose, is a delicious medicine. Pour a liter of milk into a saucepan, add half a glass of cool water, half a teaspoon of star anise, a pinch of mint and 3-4 crushed black peppercorns. Put the saucepan in the oven. Focus on your oven. But, usually, half an hour is enough for the milk to become baked. Try not to let it boil. After 20 minutes, screw the fire and sweat it for another 5-7 minutes. If you cook for pleasure and not for illness, you can drink it with sugar. Great to mix it with strong tea.
Recipe V.V. Pokhlebkin No. 3
If you have a breakdown or itching somehow, prepare fried fruits. You need to take dry fruits, Fry - only in butter or ghee. Therefore, they must be eaten hot. You can add a little water to the fried fruits and cover the pan with a lid, hold on fire until the water evaporates. The fruits will steam out and become similar in shape to fresh ones, but not in taste. This dish will help if one of your loved ones is recovering from a serious illness. Well, if you're sad.
If you want something like that, feel free to experiment. After reading the books of V.V. Pokhlebkina, you are simply irresistibly drawn to experiments. And the experiment is incompatible with depression. And Pokhlebkin's books too.
William Pokhlebkin. Recipes of our life
In March 2000, under mysterious circumstances, the famous scientist William Pokhlebkin was killed at the door of his apartment.
Newspapers were full of scandalous headlines, but Pokhlebkin's life was no less mysterious than his tragic death.
At thirty-seven, William Vasilievich became a famous historian of the twentieth century. However, he was recognized only abroad. He spoke seven languages, but turned out to be "not allowed to travel abroad." At forty, Pokhlebkin was left without a penny of money and was doomed to starvation. At forty-five, a treasure fell on his head. At sixty, the whole world spoke of him as a brilliant cook, and at seventy-six, his mutilated body was found in his own apartment.
Why is a historian, culinary specialist, journalist who devoted his whole life to home country, was not loved by the authorities?
And who could be behind his death?
The mystery of the death of the culinary specialist Pokhlebkin
Some thought he was crazy. Others have argued that he is a closet dissident who has deliberately lived his life outside the state, outside the system. Still others said that he traded his unique research talent for some nonsense - writing recipes, food books and gastronomic advice for housewives.
Those who thought so were wrong. The culinary talent and mind of William Pokhlebkin were in demand. His works have become a kind of school of tasty and healthy national food in the USSR. His recipes enabled thousands of common Soviet people try yourself in the art of cooking and feel the joy of creativity in your own kitchen.
Director: Vera Kilchevskaya
Screenwriter: Alexander Krastoshevsky
William Vasilievich Pokhlebkin
Was born: August 20, 1923, Moscow
Died: March 2000, Podolsk, Moscow region
- Shakotis
Biography
Pokhlebkin William Vasilievich(August 20, 1923 - end of March 2000) - Soviet, Russian scientist, historian, geographer, journalist and writer. Author of famous cookery books. Connoisseur of the history of diplomacy and international relations, heraldry and ethnography.
V. V. Pokhlebkin is widely known, in particular, thanks to cookbooks that are fascinating and contain a lot of historical and interesting little-known information.
His cookery books Secrets of Good Cuisine and National Cuisines of Our Nations contain not strict recipes, but methods of preparing various dishes, including long-forgotten ones. To some extent, these books are also historical, as they contain information about the history of various dishes and cooking in general. Among professionals, he is known as the first theoretical chef in history, who gave the world cuisine a universal classification based on technology.
The book about tea - "Tea: Its types, properties, use" - is revered by many lovers of this drink.
The book "History of Vodka" was translated into English language and known all over the world (en: A History of Vodka).
William Pokhlebkin: top recipes of Russian cuisine
William Pokhlebkin became famous not only as a scientist and specialist in international relations, but also as a culinary researcher. William Pokhlebkin became the most famous gastronomic historian in Russia. He wrote more than one cookbook; according to his recipes of Russian cuisine, people still learn how to cook. woman's day collected the most famous dishes of William Pokhlebkin.
Shchi rich (full): recipe
Ingredients:
750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 1 celery root and greens, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. l. butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. l. cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 tsp. marjoram or dry angelica (dawn).
Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and boil for 2 hours. After 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, remove it and combine with strained broth and beef.
Mushrooms and a potato cut into four parts put in an enameled saucepan, pour 2 cups of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and lower into the mushroom broth to cook. After the mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with the meat broth.
To the combined broths and cabbage, add finely chopped onion, all other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream directly in the plates.
Studen: recipe
Ingredients:
1 head (veal or pork), 4 legs (veal or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 5 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 10 black peppercorns, 5 bay leaves, 1-2 onions, 1 garlic head , for 1 kg of meat - 1 liter of water.
Singe the legs and head, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook for 6 to 8 hours on very low heat, without boiling, so that the volume of water is reduced by half. 1-1.5 hours before the end of cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, 20 minutes before cooking. - pepper, bay leaf; salt a little. Then take out the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, transfer to a separate bowl, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper. Boil the broth with the remaining bones for another half an hour or an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), add salt, strain and pour over the boiled prepared meat. Freeze for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin is not used, since young meat (veal, pig, pork) contains a sufficient amount of sticky substances.
Serve the jelly with horseradish, mustard, crushed garlic and sour cream.
Roast: recipe
Ingredients:
2-2.5 kg of well-fed beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 black pepper grains, 3-4 bay leaves, 2 tsp. ginger, 0.5 cups of sour cream, 1 tsp. salt, 1-1.5 cups of kvass.
Wash the beef, remove films, bones, cut off the fat from it, cut it into small pieces, put it on a preheated frying pan or baking sheet, melt, calcine, fry the whole piece of beef in it so that it becomes covered with a crust, sprinkling with finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley and crushed spices, then place in the oven, water every 10 minutes. little by little kvass, turning all the time. Fry for about 1-1.5 hours. For 5-7 minutes. until the end of frying, collect all the juice in a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, refrigerate. When the juice has cooled, remove the layer of fat from the surface, heat the juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as a dipping sauce. Remove the cooked beef from the oven, salt, let it cool slightly (15 minutes), then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour over hot meat juice and serve.
Roasts are not served cold or reheated. Garnish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, turnips, rutabaga, fried or stewed mushrooms.
Pike in sour cream: recipe
Ingredients:
1-1.5 kg of pike, 1-2 tbsp. l. sunflower oil, 300-450 g sour cream, 1-2 tsp. ground black pepper, 1 lemon (juice and zest), 1 pinch of nutmeg.
Fish with a specific odor (for example, pike, some types of sea fish) require special processing and preparation methods.
Peel the pike, rub it with pepper inside and out, pour over with oil and put it entirely in a deep frying pan on a ceramic stand (you can use a saucer) and open it in the oven for 7-10 minutes to make the fish brown. Then transfer to a tighter bowl, pour sour cream, half covering the pike with it, close the lid and put in the oven on low heat for 45-60 minutes. Put the finished fish on a dish, pour over lemon juice, and heat the resulting gravy on the stove until thickened, salt, season with grated nutmeg and zest and serve separately to the fish in a gravy boat or pour over the fish with it.
Fried mushrooms: recipe
Ingredients:
4 cups of peeled mushrooms (different), 100-150 g of sunflower oil, 2 onions, 1 tbsp. l. dill, 2 tbsp. l. parsley, 0.5 cup sour cream, 0.5 tsp. ground black pepper.
Peel the mushrooms, rinse, cut into strips, put in a preheated dry frying pan, cover with a lid and fry over medium heat until the juice released by the mushrooms boils away almost completely; then salt, add finely chopped onion, add oil, mix and continue to fry over moderate heat until a brownish color is formed, about 20 minutes. After that, pepper, sprinkle with finely chopped dill and parsley, mix, fry for 2-3 minutes, add sour cream and bring it to a boil.
In the mushroom season, it is important to know how to cook mushrooms for future use.
Oatmeal porridge: recipe
Ingredients:
2 cups of Hercules oatmeal, 0.75 liters of water, 0.5 liters of milk, 2 tsp. salt, 3 tbsp. l. butter.
Pour the grits with water and cook over low heat until the water boils and thickens completely, then add hot milk in two steps and, continuing to stir, cook until thickened, season with salt. Season the finished porridge with oil.
Cabbage Pie: Recipe
Yeast puff pastry
Ingredients:
600 g flour, 1.25-1.5 cups milk (1.25 for a sweet pie), 125 g butter, 25-30 g yeast, 1-2 yolks (2 yolks for a sweet pie), 1.5 tsp. l. salt.
In the case of using this dough for sweet pies, add to it: 1 tbsp. l. sugar 1 tsp lemon zest, star anise, cinnamon or cardamom (depending on the filling: for nut, poppy - cardamom, for apple - cinnamon, for cherry - star anise, for currant, strawberry - zest).
Knead flour, milk, yeast, yolks, salt and 25 g of butter into a dough, knead thoroughly and let rise at cool room temperature. Knead the risen dough, roll it into a layer about 1 cm thick, grease with a thin layer of butter, fold it in four, then put it for 10 minutes. to the cold. Then roll out again and brush with oil, folding the layers and repeating this operation three times, then let the dough rise in a cold place. After that, without dying, cut the dough for the pie.
Cabbage stuffing
You can prepare the filling from both fresh and stewed cabbage.
Chop fresh cabbage, salt, let stand for about 1 hour, squeeze the juice slightly, add butter and finely chopped hard-boiled eggs and immediately use for the filling.
Chop fresh cabbage, put in a saucepan under the lid, simmer over low heat until it becomes soft, then add sunflower oil, increase the heat, fry the cabbage lightly so that it remains light, add onion, parsley and black ground pepper, mix with hard-boiled chopped eggs.
Buckwheat-wheat pancakes: recipe
Homemade cracker kvass: recipe
Ingredients:
1 kg of rye crackers (best of all different - from Orlovsky, rye and Borodino bread, but not peeled), 750 g of sugar, 10-15 blackcurrant leaves, 50 g of raisins, 2-3 tbsp. l. liquid brewer's yeast or 25 g baker's yeast, 2 tbsp. l. dry mint (not peppermint).
Pour crackers dried in the oven to a light crust with 1 bucket of boiling water and leave for 12 hours. Separately brew mint, separately currant leaf with a liter of boiling water and leave for 5 hours. , sugar, boiled in 0.5 l of water, and yeast, stir and leave to ferment for 4 hours. Then remove the foam, strain, pour into bottles, adding a few raisins to each, and leave for 2 days for aging in the cold.
Based on homemade kvass, you can cook the main summer soup. We recommend a quick okroshka recipe.
Honey gingerbread (homemade)
Ingredients:
400 g wheat flour, 100 g rye flour, 2 yolks, 0.75-1 glass of milk or curdled milk, 125 g sour cream, 500 g honey, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of burnt sugar, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 2 cardamom capsules, 4 cloves, 0.5 tsp. star anise, 1 tsp lemon zest, 0.5 tsp soda.
Boil honey in a saucepan over low heat until red, removing the foam, then brew part of it with rye flour and stir with the rest of the honey, cool to a slightly warm state and beat until white.
Wipe the zhzhenka with yolks, add milk and knead wheat flour on the egg-milk mixture, after mixing it and mixing it with spices ground into powder.
Combine the honey-rye mixture with sour cream and the above mixture, whisking thoroughly. Place the finished dough in a greased form (or baking sheet) with a layer of 1-2 cm and bake over low heat. Cut the finished gingerbread plate into 4x6 cm rectangles.
These gingerbread cookies are not glazed.
Preparing burnt sugar. Make a thick sugar syrup and heat it over moderate heat in a small thick-walled metal bowl, stirring all the time, until it turns yellow, then reduce the heat slightly and continue stirring until it becomes beige or light brown. At the same time, sugar should not burn, the smell should be specifically caramel, and not burnt. This is achieved by careful, continuous stirring and regulation of the fire. The resulting light brown candy is used to tint and give a "caramel" flavor to products.
William Pokhlebkin became famous not only as a scientist and specialist in international relations, but also as a culinary researcher. William Pokhlebkin became the most famous gastronomic historian in Russia. He wrote more than one cookbook; according to his recipes of Russian cuisine, people still learn how to cook. Woman's Day has collected the most famous dishes of William Pokhlebkin.
Shchi rich (full): recipe
Ingredients:
750 g of beef, 500-750 g or 1 half-liter can of sauerkraut, 4-5 dry porcini mushrooms, 0.5 cups of salted mushrooms, 1 carrot, 1 large potato, 1 turnip, 2 onions, 1 celery root and greens, 1 root and parsley, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of dill, 3 bay leaves, 4-5 cloves of garlic, 1 tbsp. l. butter or ghee, 1 tbsp. l. cream, 100 g sour cream, 8 black peppercorns, 1 tsp. marjoram or dry angelica (dawn).
Put the beef together with the onion and half of the roots (carrots, parsley, celery) in cold water and boil for 2 hours. After 1-1.5 hours after the start of cooking, salt, then strain the broth, discard the roots.
Put sauerkraut in a clay pot, pour 0.5 liters of boiling water, add butter, close, put in a moderately heated oven. When the cabbage begins to soften, remove it and combine with strained broth and beef.
Mushrooms and a potato cut into four parts put in an enameled saucepan, pour 2 cups of cold water and put on fire. When the water boils, remove the mushrooms, cut into strips and lower into the mushroom broth to cook. After the mushrooms and potatoes are ready, combine with the meat broth.
To the combined broths and cabbage, add finely chopped onion, all other roots, cut into strips, and spices (except garlic and dill), salt and cook for 20 minutes. Then remove from heat, season with dill and garlic and let it brew for about 15 minutes, wrapped in something warm. Before serving, season with coarsely chopped salted mushrooms and sour cream directly in the plates.
Studen: recipe
Ingredients:
1 head (veal or pork), 4 legs (veal or pork), 1 carrot, 1 parsley (root), 5 Jamaican (allspice) peppercorns, 10 black peppercorns, 5 bay leaves, 1-2 onions, 1 head garlic , for 1 kg of meat - 1 liter of water.
Singe the legs and head, clean, cut into equal pieces, pour water and cook for 6 to 8 hours on very low heat, without boiling, so that the volume of water is reduced by half. 1–1.5 hours before the end of cooking, add onions, carrots, parsley, 20 minutes before cooking. - pepper, bay leaf; salt a little. Then take out the meat, separate from the bones, cut into small pieces, transfer to a separate bowl, mix with finely chopped garlic and a small amount of ground black pepper. Boil the broth with the remaining bones for another half an hour or an hour (so that its volume does not exceed 1 liter), add salt, strain and pour over the boiled prepared meat. Get cold for 3-4 hours.
Gelatin is not used, since young meat (veal, pig, pork) contains a sufficient amount of sticky substances.
Serve the jelly with horseradish, mustard, crushed garlic and sour cream.
Roast: recipe
Ingredients:
2-2.5 kg plump beef (thick edge), 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 parsley or celery, 6-8 black peppercorns, 3-4 bay leaves, 2 tsp. ginger, 0.5 cups of sour cream, 1 tsp. salt, 1-1.5 cups of kvass.
Wash the beef, remove films, bones, cut off the fat from it, cut it into small pieces, put it on a preheated frying pan or baking sheet, melt, calcine, fry the whole piece of beef in it so that it becomes covered with a crust, sprinkling with finely chopped carrots, onions, parsley and crushed spices, then place in the oven, water every 10 minutes. little by little kvass, turning all the time. Fry for about 1–1.5 hours. For 5–7 minutes. until the end of frying, collect all the juice in a cup, add 0.25 cups of cold boiled water to it, refrigerate. When the juice has cooled, remove the layer of fat from the surface, heat the juice, strain, add sour cream. Serve as a dipping sauce. Remove the cooked beef from the oven, salt, let it cool slightly (15 minutes), then cut across the fibers into pieces, pour over hot meat juice and serve.
Roasts are not served cold or reheated. Garnish can be fried potatoes, boiled or stewed carrots, turnips, rutabaga, fried or stewed mushrooms.
Pike in sour cream: recipe
Ingredients:
1–1.5 kg pike, 1–2 tbsp. l. sunflower oil, 300–450 g sour cream, 1–2 tsp. ground black pepper, 1 lemon (juice and zest), 1 pinch of nutmeg.
Fish with a specific odor (for example, pike, some types of sea fish) require special processing and preparation methods.
Peel the pike, rub it with pepper inside and out, pour over with oil and put it whole in a deep frying pan on a ceramic stand (you can use a saucer) and open it in the oven for 7-10 minutes to make the fish brown. Then transfer to a tighter bowl, pour sour cream, half covering the pike with it, close the lid and put in the oven on low heat for 45–60 minutes. Put the finished fish on a dish, pour over lemon juice, and heat the resulting gravy on the stove until thickened, salt, season with grated nutmeg and zest and serve separately to the fish in a gravy boat or pour over the fish with it.
Fried mushrooms: recipe
Ingredients:
4 cups peeled mushrooms (various), 100–150 g sunflower oil, 2 onions, 1 tbsp. l. dill, 2 tbsp. l. parsley, 0.5 cup sour cream, 0.5 tsp. ground black pepper.
Peel the mushrooms, rinse, cut into strips, put in a preheated dry frying pan, cover with a lid and fry over medium heat until the juice released by the mushrooms boils away almost completely; then salt, add finely chopped onion, add oil, mix and continue to fry over moderate heat until a brownish color is formed, about 20 minutes. After that, pepper, sprinkle with finely chopped dill and parsley, mix, fry for 2-3 minutes, add sour cream and bring it to a boil.
In the mushroom season, it is important to know how to cook mushrooms for future use.
Oatmeal porridge: recipe
Ingredients:
2 cups of Hercules oatmeal, 0.75 liters of water, 0.5 liters of milk, 2 tsp. salt, 3 tbsp. l. butter.
Pour the grits with water and cook over low heat until the water boils and thickens completely, then add hot milk in two steps and, continuing to stir, cook until thickened, season with salt. Season the finished porridge with oil.
Cabbage Pie: Recipe
Yeast puff pastry
Ingredients:
600 g flour, 1.25–1.5 cups milk (1.25 for sweet pie), 125 g butter, 25–30 g yeast, 1–2 yolks (2 yolks for sweet pie), 1.5 tsp. l. salt.
In the case of using this dough for sweet pies, add to it: 1 tbsp. l. sugar 1 tsp lemon zest, star anise, cinnamon or cardamom (depending on the filling: for nut, poppy - cardamom, for apple - cinnamon, for cherry - star anise, for currant, strawberry - zest).
Knead flour, milk, yeast, yolks, salt and 25 g of butter into a dough, knead thoroughly and let rise at cool room temperature. Knead the risen dough, roll it into a layer about 1 cm thick, grease with a thin layer of butter, fold it in four, then put it for 10 minutes. to the cold. Then roll out again and brush with oil, folding the layers and repeating this operation three times, then let the dough rise in a cold place. After that, without dying, cut the dough for the pie.
Cabbage stuffing
You can prepare the filling from both fresh and stewed cabbage.
Chop fresh cabbage, salt, let stand for about 1 hour, squeeze the juice slightly, add butter and finely chopped hard-boiled eggs and immediately use for the filling.
Chop fresh cabbage, put in a saucepan under the lid, simmer over low heat until it becomes soft, then add sunflower oil, increase the heat, fry the cabbage lightly so that it remains light, add onion, parsley and black ground pepper, mix with hard-boiled chopped eggs.
Buckwheat-wheat pancakes: recipe
Ingredients:
3.5 cups of buckwheat flour, 1.5 cups of wheat flour, 2.5 cups of warm water, 2 cups of boiling milk, 25 g of yeast, 25 g of butter, 2 eggs, 1 tsp. sugar, 1 tsp salt, 0.5 cups melted butter.
Dissolve the yeast in water, add all the wheat flour and an equal volume of buckwheat flour, let it rise. Pour the remaining buckwheat flour, let it rise again. Brew the dough with hot milk, cool, put sugar, salt, butter, let it rise and then bake. Honey gingerbread
Ingredients:
400 g wheat flour, 100 g rye flour, 2 yolks, 0.75–1 glass of milk or curdled milk, 125 g sour cream, 500 g honey, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of burnt sugar, 1 tsp. cinnamon, 2 cardamom capsules, 4 cloves, 0.5 tsp. star anise, 1 tsp lemon zest, 0.5 tsp soda.
Boil honey in a saucepan over low heat until red, removing the foam, then brew part of it with rye flour and stir with the rest of the honey, cool to a slightly warm state and beat until white.
Wipe the zhzhenka with yolks, add milk and knead wheat flour on the egg-milk mixture, after mixing it and mixing it with spices ground into powder.
Combine the honey-rye mixture with sour cream and the above mixture, whisking thoroughly. Place the finished dough in a greased form (or baking sheet) with a layer of 1–2 cm and bake over low heat. Cut the finished gingerbread plate into 4x6 cm rectangles.
These gingerbread cookies are not glazed.
Preparing burnt sugar. Make a thick sugar syrup and heat it over moderate heat in a small thick-walled metal bowl, stirring all the time, until it turns yellow, then reduce the heat slightly and continue stirring until it becomes beige or light brown. At the same time, sugar should not burn, the smell should be specifically caramel, and not burnt. This is achieved by careful, continuous stirring and regulation of the fire. The resulting light brown candy is used to tint and give a "caramel" flavor to products.