Who is Shuvalov Elbrus. Lena and Andrey: the last hours on earth…
Shuvalovs- Russian noble and count family, whose history can be traced back to the 16th century.
The origin of the Shuvalov surname is not famous for the antiquity of the family: it moved out of the “petty noble class” in the transformative era of Peter the Great, and then was elevated to the top of honors, wealth and all kinds of distinctions by one of palace coups with which the St. Petersburg period of Russian history is so rich.
Coat of arms of the Count Shuvalov family
According to the surviving in-line records and acts, it can be seen that in the second half of the 16th century in Kostroma district was a landowner Dmitry Shuvalov. And from him, at least five generations of this family stretch until the days of Peter I, and the original representatives of this family are constantly among the noble landowners of the Kostroma region. Like all nobles, they are often in the service of the king: for example, one of them - Andrey Semenovich we meet under the walls of Smolensk, he was a governor (1616), another - Mikhail Ivanovich- in battles with the Crimean robbers;
1. Michael's older brother - Maksim- was killed in one of these battles, namely: in the ill-fated campaign of 1687 for the Russians.
One of Andrew's relatives, Danilo, was a Moscow archery centurion (1636) and was subsequently granted a boyar (1669). All this, however, were ordinary service people, the mass of which was the stronghold and strength of the then Russia.
1.1. But in the person of one of Maxim's sons, Ivan Maksimovich, the Shuvalovs begin to gradually emerge from obscurity. This Ivan Maksimovich Senior(died 1736), great-grandson of Andrei Semenovich, was a colonel and commandant in Vyborg under Peter the Great, and under Peter II he was a major general and had an Alexander ribbon, was engaged in compiling a map of sea and river banks, determined the border between Russia and Sweden and contributed to the conclusion of the Nystadt peace. Died governor in Arkhangelsk.
It is to his father, Ivan Maksimovich, that his two sons, the elder Alexander and the younger Peter, owe the beginning of the military court career. In the last years of the reign of Peter the Great, I.M. Shuvalov, then still the commandant of Vyborg, had the opportunity to appoint his sons as pages to the Highest Court. It was no secret that the education of the pages of that time was the service itself, participation in dinners and assemblies, "peace, court, travel, campaigns and balls", but not serious study.
Alexander and Peter were among the young nobles at the court of Princess Elizabeth Petrovna, and on the decisive night for her on November 25, 1741, they were among her most zealous and devoted supporters. Having reached the goal, having ascended the throne, the daughter of Peter the Great with the most generous hand showered her partisans with favors; by the way, on September 5, 1746, both Shuvalovs were elevated to count Russian Empire dignity. At the same time, Alexander Ivanovich, in the reign of Elizabeth, reaches the rank of field marshal general and for many years is the head of a terrible secret office, and his brother Peter, a man much more capable of him and with extensive information, serves as field marshal general, president of the military collegium, and finally, field marshal .
The sons, grandchildren and great-grandchildren of these two Shuvalovs are constantly on higher levels official hierarchy, and many of them are among the persons closest to the court. So, Count Andrei Petrovich, born. 1744, 1789 with the rank of actual Privy Councilor and Knight of St. Andrew and St. Vladimir 1st degree; his sons Peter and Pavel were adjutant generals: the first of Emperor Paul, the second of Alexander I. Then, in the past reign, the representatives of the family were: the president of the court office, chief marshal and cavalier of St. Andrew the First-Called Count Andrei Petrovich, married to Princess Fekla Ignatievna Zubova, nee Valentinovich; his son is the chief head of the III department of His Majesty's own Chancellery, adjutant general, lieutenant general Count Pyotr Andreevich; Chief of Staff of the St. Petersburg Military District, His Majesty's retinue, Major-General Count Pavel Andreevich, married to Princess Beloselskaya-Belozerskaya; member of the council of the secretary of the interior. advice Pyotr Grigoryevich Shuvalov (55 years old in 1882), married to Princess M. S. Gagarina; Counts: Andrei Pavlovich (b. 1816, married to Count Sofya Mikh. Vorontsova) and Pyotr Pavlovich Shuvalov, b. 1819
1.2. his brother Ivan Maksimovich the Younger(died 1741), served as a captain of the guard and was seriously wounded during the assault on Ochakov.
The loudest and most well-deserved fame in recent national history his son uses Ivan Ivanovich- Founder and curator of the Moscow University, in 1797.
The clan of noblemen and counts Shuvalov was recorded in the VI and V parts of the genealogical books of the provinces of Simbirsk, St. Petersburg, Kostroma and Yaroslavl.
AT modern history The surname "Shuvalov" is also widely represented in Russia. However, for the most part, its bearers do not belong to a noble family, but come from the townspeople and / or former serfs of their famous namesakes. In 2009, on the initiative of Sergei Evgenievich Shuvalov, the ALL-RUSSIAN COMMUNITY OF THE SHUVALOV FAMILY was founded
1.1.1. Graph Alexander Ivanovich Shuvalov(1710 — 1771) — confidant Elizabeth Petrovna and in particular Peter III, Chamberlain, Head of the Office of Secret Investigation Affairs, Field Marshal General, Senator, member of the St. Petersburg Conference. Brother of Pyotr Ivanovich Shuvalov and cousin of Ivan Ivanovich Shuvalov, favorite of Elizaveta Petrovna.
Thanks to the efforts of his father Ivan Maksimovich, the Vyborg commandant, he was assigned to the court of Princess Elizabeth, where he played until 1741 important role managing the yard. He took an active part in the revolution of 1741.
With the accession of Elizabeth, he immediately occupied an influential position, showered, like his brother, with royal favors, awards and signs of goodwill: in 1741 he was awarded the Order of Alexander Nevsky, in 1744 he became a lieutenant general, from 1746 - adjutant general of the empress, in the same year, like brother Pyotr Ivanovich, is elevated to the dignity of a count. The influence of the Shuvalovs has increased even more since 1749, when Alexander Ivanovich's cousin, Ivan Ivanovich, becomes Elizabeth's favorite. December 18 (29), 1753 receives the highest award of the Empire - the Order of the Holy Apostle Andrew the First-Called.
From 1742 he took part in the affairs of the Secret Chancellery, in 1746 he replaced the famous Ushakov as its head. Supervises the content of the Braunschweig family in exile, leads the investigation into the Lestok case, and later the investigation into the case of Apraksin and Bestuzhev.
In 1754 he was appointed court marshal at the court of Grand Duke Peter Fedorovich, the future Peter III. The Shuvalovs attach particular importance to this, since they hope that such a rapprochement with the heir to the throne will allow them to strengthen their position at court. However, the future showed that, having staked on Peter III, they were deeply mistaken.
Last years The Elizabethan reign and the short reign of Peter III become the pinnacle of the power of the Shuvalov party: in 1758 A. I. Shuvalov became a senator, on December 28 (according to the old style) 1761 - Field Marshal General.
During the coup that brought Catherine to power, he tries to agitate the guards to remain loyal to Peter, but, convinced of the complete futility of his attempts, he rushes to the feet of the empress, asking her for mercy. Having approved the petition, Catherine gives two thousand serfs to Shuvalov personally hated by her and dismisses him from all posts (1763, according to other sources, 1762). He spent the last years of his life with his family in the estate of Kositsy, Vereisky district, Moscow province, and was buried in the Church of the Transfiguration he built.
Alexander was the palest figure of the Shuvalov party, according to contemporaries, he had neither the charisma nor the gifts of his brothers, without whose approval he did not dare to take a step. In the St. Petersburg Conference, an advisory body under the Empress Elizaveta Petrovna, he played an inconspicuous role, being a conductor of other people's ideas. Catherine II, who could not stand Alexander Ivanovich Shuvalov, portrays him as a stupid, indecisive, cruel, petty, stingy, boring and vulgar person:
Alexander Shuvalov, not by himself, but by the position he occupied, was a thunderstorm for the entire court, the city and the entire Empire; he was the head of the Inquisition Court, which was then called the Secret Office. His occupation, it was said, produced in him a kind of convulsive movement, which took place on the whole right side of his face, from the eye to the chin, whenever he was excited by joy, anger, fear or fear.
From marriage to Ekaterina Ivanovna Kastyurina(1718-1790) had an only daughter
1.1.1.1. Catherine(1733-1821), married in 1750 to Count Gavriil Ivanovich Golovkin(d. 1787), grandson and main heir of the Peter's chancellor. Countess Ekaterina Aleksandrovna Golovkina was a lady of state; there is a version that it was in her Moscow house that A. S. Pushkin was born. Its serf ballet actors formed the core of the Bolshoi Ballet Company. Married had four sons, all childless, and an unmarried daughter Elizabeth (1752—1820).
Igor Ivanovich Shuvalov - politician, lawyer, one of the wealthiest members of the government. From 2008 to 2018 - First Deputy Prime Minister, previously - former assistant to President Vladimir Putin (until 2008), head of the federal property fund (until 2000), deputy minister of the Ministry of State Property (1998).Responsible for the development of the main vectors of economic development, resolving issues in the field of international relations, customs and tariff regulation, the implementation of investment projects, support for small businesses, privatization issues and much more, the first deputy chairman, according to analysts, over the years of work in Putin's team has shown himself to be a reliable confidant, the main driving force, "marshal" and competent adviser. The authority of the official also included preparations for the meeting of the leaders of the G8 and APEC states, the games in Sochi and the 2018 FIFA World Cup.
In the media, he is described as "a flexible liberal who opposes the Kremlin's hardliners", a powerful lobbyist for a number of financial institutions, the owner of dubious assets and "the true face of Russian business on a global scale." His entrepreneurship is associated with such famous figures as Roman Abramovich, Oleg Boyko, Alisher Usmanov, Suleiman Kerimov. He is one of the most financially secure representatives of the government elite (with a family income of 478 million rubles according to data for 2014) and allegedly owns a manor and a castle in Zarechye, a villa in the UAE, an apartment in the capital of Britain, an estate in Austria, assets in France and general condition at $220 million.
Childhood and youth of Igor Shuvalov
Igor Shuvalov was born on January 4, 1967 in the Chukchi village of Bilibino, where his relatives, Muscovites themselves, temporarily worked under a contract. Cute details from the childhood of the future politician are hidden from the public. It is known that Shuvalov went to the first class for another Far East, however, he received a certificate of secondary education already in one of the Moscow schools.There is a hypothesis that Igor Shuvalov comes from the Count Shuvalov family, leading a genealogy from the 16th century, which flourished during the reign of Elizabeth Petrovna. However, Shuvalov himself did not delve into this issue, so he is not sure that he can boast of such a relationship. According to the official, his father comes from the "Moscow Shuvalovs", and his maternal ancestors are natives of the Smolensk region, who moved to Moscow in the era of industrialization.
In 1984, he made an unsuccessful attempt to enter Moscow State University, then for a year he worked as a laboratory assistant at the Ekos Research Institute (Analytical Center for Communications), and in 1985 he was called to military service. There is no information about what kind of troops Shuvalov served in.
Demobilized in 1987, he was enrolled in the working faculty of Moscow State University, and a year later became a full student of the law faculty of the same institution. In 1993, Igor Shuvalov graduated from the university, becoming a certified lawyer, after which he was hired by the Foreign Ministry.
Shuvalov's business career
The talented and ambitious graduate of Moscow State University did not stay long as an attaché. During this period, he met Alexander Mamut, who was a subordinate of Roman Kolodkin, Shuvalov's senior colleague at the Foreign Ministry. Igor's son was just born, and the official was in search of a more promising and profitable job. Roman recommended Shuvalov to Mamut, who was in need of staff for the newly established ALM-consulting legal and consulting center, working in partnership with London-based Frere Cholmeley Bischoff.Quite quickly, the bureau acquired clients among leading businessmen and politicians, including the owner of the OLBI concern Oleg Boyko, Boris Berezovsky, Roman Abramovich (Shuvalov supported the privatization of Sibneft in 1995), Alisher Usmanov.
For six months, Shuvalov was engaged in legal support for the affairs of the National Credit Bank headed by Boyko. Boyko wanted the affairs of his bank to be a priority for Shuvalov, so he decided to interest him by offering to become a co-owner of the business and receive 15% of the assets. Subsequently, Shuvalov acted as a co-founder of a number of companies, in particular, "OPT-Consortium Bank", which combined the funds of financial institutions - shareholders of the company "ORT", as well as an impressive list of organizations engaged in trading, banking and real estate activities ("Stalker", " Fantheim", "RANDO", etc.).
Shuvalov in politics
In 1997, Shuvalov, not without the help of Mamut, was appointed head of the Department of the State Register of Federal Property of the State Property Committee, having received the right to represent the interests of the country in financial structures (Rosgosstrakh, Sovcomflot). In December 1997, he joined the Board of Directors of Sovcomflot, a couple of months later he took a chair on the board of ORT. Soon (after the resignation of the government of Viktor Chernomyrdin in 1998), he was approved for the post of head Russian fund federal property. Shuvalov retained the position of head of the RFBR for a long time - he was such during the premierships of Yevgeny Primakov, Sergei Stepashin and Vladimir Putin.At the same time, a successful businessman and official represented state interests in Gazprom, ORT, the Russian State Insurance Company, and the All-Union Exhibition Center. He was included in a group to develop measures to overcome the financial and economic crisis, which, among others, included the head of the presidential administration, Alexander Voloshin, and the chairman of Vnesheconombank, Andrey Kostin. (images/stories2015/uzn_1442996135.jpg #Deputy Prime Minister Igor Shuvalov) In 2000, Igor Shuvalov, at the suggestion of Voloshin and Abramovich, took the chair of the minister, chief of staff of the Russian White House. In 2003, after an incident with Prime Minister Mikhail Kasyanov, who lost confidence in Shuvalov, considering him to represent the interests of his oligarch patrons, Igor left the Government, after which he was appointed assistant to the head of state, oversaw issues of economic growth, the fight against poverty and the reform of the armed forces .
In October 2003, he became deputy to the new head of the presidential administration, Dmitry Medvedev. He headed the Board of Directors of the shipping company Sovcomflot, became a representative of the National Banking Council.
In 2005, Shuvalov became Vladimir Putin's personal representative at the G8 summit, and the following year he took an active part in Russia's representation at the summit as deputy chairman of the organizing committee.
Exclusive interview with Igor Shuvalov
In 2008, along with Viktor Zubkov, he became the first deputy chairman of the government. Russian Federation, heading the commission for the development of small and medium-sized businesses, as well as the body to counter the negative consequences of the global financial crisis. In addition, Igor Ivanovich supervised the preparatory activities for the annual meeting of the leaders of the APEC states.
Since 2009, a senior official has been acting as Russia's national coordinator for CIS affairs, since 2010 - head of the commission for economic development and integration.
Since 2011 (after the resignation of Alexei Kudrin), the politician has been the curator of the economic sector, the country's representative in the Eurasian Profile Commission. In the same period, he was predicted to be a leader political force"Just Cause", then his candidacy was considered as the main one from the Primorsky branch " United Russia”in the Duma elections, but later he abandoned his intention to run for the State Duma.
In 2012, he became the head of the commission for urban planning policy, transport and communications, retaining the position of first deputy chairman and overseeing privatization issues.
In an interview in 2015, the official announced that the consequences of the crisis for the country's economy were less detrimental than expected by the authorities, and that from 2016 the economy in Russia would grow.
Deputy Prime Minister Igor Shuvalov comes up with an anti-crisis plan
Personal life of Igor Shuvalov
Shuvalov, who, according to experts from the heraldry of the head of the Russian Imperial House, may be a descendant of domestic aristocrats.
Like any exemplary politician, he is married. His wife, even in his student years, was a classmate Olga. In 1993, she graduated from Moscow State University with a degree in civil law. Now she is a housewife, however, even being in this status, she manages to earn millions, since with the transition to the service of the state, her husband rewrote his assets in her name. She breeds Welsh Corgi dogs.
The couple has three children. In 1993, the son of Eugene was born, in 1998 - the daughter of Maria, in 2002 - Anastasia. The son was fond of equestrian sports, wrestling and swimming, Masha - rhythmic gymnastics. Shuvalov himself loves to play football with his friends.
Scandals
Igor Shuvalov is considered one of the richest Russian politicians, which has earned him a reputation as the most corrupt government official. He often becomes a defendant in major scandals. It is believed that the main interests of Igor Shuvalov lie outside of Russia. The official has so far managed to fend off all the attacks of Western and domestic media regarding the dubious legality of his capital. As a result, despite the fact that the official is distinguished by vast experience, reliable connections in the state apparatus and business, the prospects for his ascent to the very top of power are minimal.At the end of 2011, the US Securities Commission made publicly available information about Shuvalov's acquisition of assets worth more than $300 million in the United States.
A couple of months later, Alexei Navalny posted documents to the public, according to which the Shuvalov family earned millions of dollars on the shares of Gazprom and Sibneft, and the money was transferred to Shuvalov through accounts nominally owned by the oligarchs Abramovich and Usmanov.
A year later, Boris Nemtsov convicted Shuvalov of arrears in paying transport tax in the amount of 300 thousand rubles. Later it turned out that all the debts of the politician were repaid, just the website of the Federal Tax Service, due to its specifics, reflected the amounts received with a delay.
In 2016, Shuvalov's wife was convicted of using on a permanent basis a private plane worth $50 million that was not declared for their family. It turned out that the plane was used to transport dogs to international exhibitions, and the amount spent on jet flights was, according to the Anti-Corruption Foundation, about 40 million rubles a year.
In the summer of the same year, Alexei Navalny announced that Shuvalov was building a “king-apartment” in an elite multi-storey building on Kotelnicheskaya Embankment, having bought 10 apartments on the 14th floor of a high-rise building, the total cost of which the blogger estimated at 600 million rubles. Shuvalov's manager replied that the apartments could have been "acquired as part of an investment asset management strategy" and added that everything was in order with Shuvalov and his family's property declarations.
Shuvalov: “Apartments are 20 square meters each. Seems funny..."
Igor Shuvalov today
In 2016, Igor Shuvalov oversaw the preparation of cities for Russia for the 2018 FIFA World Cup. However, in October this duty passed to Vitaly Mutko, who took up a new position as Deputy Prime Minister for Sports.
In May 2018, Igor Shuvalov left the new Government of the Russian Federation, formed shortly after the inauguration of Vladimir Putin. According to sources, Shuvalov has long wanted to get a new appointment, "where the president says."
Forgive them, Elbrus. how we forgive you...I received a letter from Oksana Yachmeneva (Vkontakte).
Here it is: Hello. Sorry for not being familiar with you, I write in a personal. In early May, when I was searching the Internet for any information about my friend Lena Shuvalova, I came across your article about Andrei Belov. The fact is that the tourists they accompanied then sent me photos and videos showing last days Lena and Andrey. I gave them to Lena's relatives. As for Andrei's relatives and friends, I don't know them. And now I thought, maybe you will need it ... http://vk.com/wall176577981_309
I looked at these few photos for a long, long time. Not very successful from a professional position, not close to the faces of those whom they captured, but possessing a piercing power - they are two of those who are no longer with us. Here they are still alive, still smiling, talking, perhaps discussing some tomorrow's problems.
And they will no longer be.
No problem.
No tomorrow.
There will be nothing for them, Lena and Andrey.
Will not be in our world.
How could such a tragedy happen, the likes of which professional climbers do not remember? No answer. Yes, if he was, what does it give us? Just a reminder of what happened. When Elena Shuvalova lost her balance on a steep icy slope and slid down, Andrey without hesitation rushed towards her, fell on her, trying to slow down the slide, but could not - the slope was 45 degrees.
Together, in a matter of seconds, they raced a hundred meters separating them from the rocky edge.
I didn't know Elena and I never will. But Andrei was a close friend for me, with whom we had a ten-year acquaintance.
He was a kind and bright man, sincere and honest, pure and worthy. By this.
Outwardly short, standing firmly on his feet, strongly knocked down - the slanting fathom in his shoulders speaks of such, he inspired solidity with his whole appearance, confidence that you would not disappear with him, he would always be there, help, protect, pull out. A measured speech, carefully calibrated arguments convinced of reliability, honesty and decency even more. It was simply impossible to imagine him raising his voice, all the more breaking into a cry, waving his arms in support of the arguments given.
He was also extremely disinterested: he could give away his last shirt (in the literal and figurative sense of the word) if he saw that someone needed it more than he did. I would say that he was not just a positive person, but warm; he carried spiritual and bodily warmth and endowed them disinterestedly.
In one of the campaigns - and we went into a gorge that was difficult to pass, requiring the full dedication of physical strength - I, as the eldest in the group, had a very hard time. The backpack pulled to the ground, slowed down the movement, I began to lag behind the others. Andrew was the first to notice. He, who was walking in front, stopped, waited until all our comrades passed by him, waited for me and started talking about something. I don’t remember what, but as a result of this short conversation, my backpack was much lighter, and at the same time I did not feel uncomfortable for my weakness.
And how many such episodes were. With these qualities, Andrey reminded me of the heroes of Exupery - French pilots who served with Antoine in the same detachment, with whom you do not hesitate to go on reconnaissance in the "Planet of People" and go to the "Night Flight", who will share the last sip of water in the desert and will never pass indifferently by, if they see that they need help, for such people are responsible. Responsible for others.
Take a look at these photos.
Take a look at a pretty woman, looking thoughtfully at the peak to be conquered, but in fact - looking not up into the sky, but into the abyss from which there is no return.
Look at this heavily built man striding firmly and confidently; smiling, reckless - he did not even hide his hair under his cap - already gray, but so thick.
Take a look and remember.
They were with us.
They lived nearby.
They're gone.
I do not blame Elbrus for their death.
The gods are not responsible for mortals.
And so I will say this: forgive them, Elbrus.
How we forgive you...
Full details of the tragedy: .
On April 27, 2017 at 6 a.m., the Crisis Management Center of the Main Directorate of the Ministry of Emergency Situations of the Russian Federation for the KBR received a message from an eyewitness that two people had fallen off on the slope of Elbrus at about 4900 m.
Elbrus VPSO allocated 13 rescuers and 2 pieces of equipment to search for and evacuate victims.
At 08.30, rescuers found the victims: the man had injuries incompatible with life, the woman received multiple fractures.
Later there was information that during the evacuation to Azau, the woman's pulse stopped.
It was also reported that both climbers climbed as part of a group of four people from Nalchik, two of whom are experienced climbers who worked as guides on Elbrus.
According to the information that the Control and Technical Commission (CTC) received from the official reports of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, the following happened from the participants in the rescue operation, witnesses and people who knew the dead closely: guides - Elena Shuvalova, 38 years old, born in 1979, and Andrey Belov , 50 years old, born in 1967 - led two Russian clients to the Western Summit.
The day before, on April 26, they made an acclimatization trip to the Pastukhov rocks and returned to the hut-wagon on Gara-bashi by 18:00. The day of rest was decided not to do because of the forecast for worsening weather from April 28. At 01:20 the group went on the ascent. They climbed to the Pastukhov rocks in this order: Shuvalova - clients - Belov. They were followed by two more people, who, when the group passed "Shelter-11", asked permission to join the group, and the guides were not against it.
After a short rest on the rocks of Pastukhov, the movement was continued, while Belov stood behind Shuvalova, followed by clients. Shuvalova started using an ice ax from the Pastukhov rocks, the rest went with trekking sticks. The ascent took place at an average pace, no one complained about anything.
The accident occurred in the area of the frozen snowcat, approximately at the level of 4900-5000 m, from the Oblique shelf, at 5 o'clock. 48 min. According to an eyewitness, Elena turned around in the direction of travel and at that moment fell. Andrei tried to catch her, literally jumped after her down the slope and even partially covered her with himself.
Shuvalova slid down the slope on her stomach, head up, tried to cut herself, Belov braked with his hands. Everything happened, according to an eyewitness, "silently and with calm faces." Soon the guides disappeared from the field of view of the clients, but the latter were sure that nothing terrible could happen. Clients tried to contact both guides on mobile phones, but they did not answer, then a call to the Ministry of Emergency Situations followed. The rescuers forbade the clients to go down on their own and told them to wait for them on the spot (the clients got up to the frozen snowcat). At 9 o'clock, the rescuers approached the snowcat and evacuated the clients down, at the same time informing them of the death of the guides.
Two people who joined the group at Shelter-11 continued their ascent.
Both dead climbers were without helmets. Shuvalova had "Grivel" crampons with a soft mount. Safety rope and ice screws were not used.
The fall down the slope occurred about 400 m.
The cause of the breakdown could be: loss of balance when turning the body, as well as as a result of a technical error when setting the cat, catching on uneven terrain, catching the teeth of the cat on the leg or “flashlight”. The general background could be fatigue as a result of insufficient recovery and lack of sleep last night.
It is worth noting such a detail described by an eyewitness: Elena had some kind of playback device with external speakers in her backpack, and in the course of her journey she listened to something like a story or lecture.
Denis Alimov, who on the eve of April 26, led his group on an acclimatization hike to Pastukhov's tales, noted: “We only reached the upper rocks. They did not go to Pastukhov. The slope both this day and the next was very bad, hard, bottle ice. Before our eyes, four were dumbfounded at the "corpse collector", and two stood on the Oblique shelf for about an hour. But by lunchtime, under the sun, everything softened, and they went up to the saddle.
Yevgeny Gavrilov, who climbed on the same day and at the same time as Belov's group, testifies: “This group and I lived in the same hut at the Gara-bashi station. The guys started from Gara-bashi, did not use snowmobiles and a snowcat, they approached the ice section quite tired, especially since the previous day they had a difficult acclimatization hike to the Pastukhov rocks, they did not have a day of rest before climbing. The sun flooded the remnants of snow on the slope, and during the night it was completely iced over.
As far as I saw, the quality of their equipment was also, to put it mildly, not very good, not everyone even had ice axes! (this season, there is nothing to do on Elbrus without very well-sharpened cats and the ability to walk on them). As a result, a little before reaching the snowcat on the "5000", both guides lost their way. There were several breakdowns that day, but without such tragic consequences.
According to comrades who knew them closely, the dead had quite significant experience of climbing Elbrus: Shuvalova had about a hundred ascents of Elbrus, Belov had fourteen (but only in summer). Andrei (a retired officer) had some mountaineering training since the times of the USSR, while Lena, despite her great Elbrus experience, had significant gaps in mountaineering technique and in the organization of security. This was most likely due to the fact that in the commercial travel agency with which she began to work as a guide, the attitude to safety issues was very superficial: a person with the experience of one ascent on the summer Elbrus could be invited to work as a guide to the winter Elbrus, it was considered sufficient for clients two-day acclimatization in the mountains, etc.
In this case, the CPC does not take on the mission of searching for links and reasons why a number of gross mistakes and shortcomings were made from the point of view of security in this experience, leaving readers to think about this issue for themselves.
The investigating authorities of Kabardino-Balkaria carried out a pre-investigation check into the fact of the death of the climbers.
This is the second tragedy and the third death on Elbrus since the beginning of the year: on February 6, near the Gara-bashi station, approximately at an altitude of 3600 m, a man fell off a cliff. The message was received by the rescuers from an eyewitness of a nearby passing group. During search and rescue operations, the body of the deceased tourist was found.
CPC emphasizes that climbing Elbrus, despite the accompaniment of experienced guides, climbing on snowcats and snowmobiles, the use of oxygen and the enthusiastic victorious reviews of anonymous users on the websites of some travel agencies, remains a life-threatening enterprise, especially in the winter-spring period.
CTC recommends carefully, through monitoring a variety of sources and opinions, to choose firms and companies to which you plan to entrust your health and life in such ascents.
The CPC notes that a standard investigation with clarification of all details and organizational conclusions was not conducted, because. this case is outside the jurisdiction of the commission, and this information is only a warning to anyone who considers climbing Elbrus a walk and, thus, presents the peak as easily accessible.
... When I heard that two climbers from Nalchik fell off and died from the eastern peak of Elbrus, my heart immediately sank - probably acquaintances, I wrote publisher and local historian from Nalchik Viktor Kotlyarov.
But the names were not mentioned in the news reports, and I did not want to believe that this was someone with whom you communicated, met, or even became friends. Today's "Newspaper of the South" named the names of guides whose lives were taken by Elbrus: 38-year-old Elena Shuvalova and 50-year-old Andrey Belov. I did not know Elena, but we had friendly relations with Andrei. We met ten years ago, in 2007, when Andrei and his wife Natasha came to the publishing house and talked about unusual megaliths located near the village of Nalchik-20, which is now called Zvezdny.
And then there was a trip to the neighborhood of the village. It is followed by the material from Starry Megalith, included in the book Mysterious Kabardino-Balkaria.
Here are lines from that essay: “Andrey Belov and his wife Natasha are rare exceptions: they do not require attention, moreover, they are terribly afraid of seeming intrusive, they are helpful and attentive in a good way. How comfortable it is with them in the mountains, it turned out during a hike in the Dzhilgi gorge, when Andrey took on the hardest part - both the additional load and the risk of being responsible for everyone. He is a former officer, not a parquet staff officer, but a real combat officer, devoted to his cause and homeland. During perestroika, like many army people, he was out of work: he could not steal, did not want to offend, did not want to sacrifice principles. Demobilized, did not find a job. But you need to live on something - he took up housekeeping: he began to breed goats, sell their milk.
The business turned out to be not profitable: the Belyaevs keep about seventy goats, twenty-five of them are dairy goats, giving two to two and a half liters each. But milk is cheap, 25-30 rubles per liter, there are no queues for it - it is not in special demand, although it is much more useful than cow milk. In the capital, the price for it is several times higher - after all, goat's milk is considered medicinal, and Muscovites, like no one else in our country, take care of their health. And production does not just pay off, but gives a significant profit. Goats require a lot of care, especially feed - albeit the most primitive, but after all, they must be prepared in considerable quantities.
So the days of the former officer fly by on mowing and grazing: around lunchtime he takes him out into the forest, and returns only in the evening. So I trampled almost every corner around the village - I went out all the paths, I knew every hollow, I climbed every hill. He saw a lot of interesting things, invited us to get acquainted, as he put it, with the “stone castle”.
And then there was our expedition to the Kum-Tyube plateau, to which we headed through the Dzhilgi gorge, in the Chegem gorge. The expedition is incredibly difficult - without paths, along stone tongues, over a multi-meter abyss, when every step threatened with irreparable consequences. However, I spoke about this campaign of ours in the essay “From Eltyubyu to Kum-Tube”. True, I didn’t mention in it that after a few hours I was so exhausted that I began to make serious mistakes more and more often - at first I fell off a stone into a stormy, roaring and merciless Jilgi-su, having lost a climbing stick; then he glided down the slope and only miraculously caught hold of a gnarled birch; in the end, exhausted so much that the backpack became an unbearable burden.
And in each case, Andrey came to my aid - he gave me his alpenstock, he pulled me onto the path, he took (and took by force) the sleeping bag from my backpack, greatly facilitating it. He went last and insured everyone and me, as the oldest in that campaign, in the first place.
AT recent times we met infrequently - Andrei completely devoted himself to the mountains: he was a caretaker on Cheget, then he began to lead groups to Elbrus. AT last time we saw him last year - we were going to go together to Georgia - to Svaneti, where Andrei had Good friends. It didn't happen that year. Now will never happen.
What kind of person was he, Andrey Belov? Kind and bright, sincere and honest, pure and worthy. By this. He was the one who is always responsible for those who are walking nearby, in need of help. He died saving a friend. When Elena Shuvalova lost her balance on a steep icy slope and slid down, he rushed towards her without hesitation, fell on her, trying to slow down the slide, but could not - the slope was 45 degrees. Together, in a matter of seconds, they raced a hundred meters separating them from the rocky edge and ...
And Andrew is no more. And Natasha was orphaned. And all of us who knew and loved him were orphaned. Farewell, Andrey, and I'm sorry that we couldn't save you...
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